Fortified Wines Beyond Jerez and Montilla-Moriles

Fortified wines are arguably Spain’s most significant contribution to global oenology. While they share characteristics with other fortified wines from around the world due to the addition of grape spirit at certain stages of production, Spanish fortified wines distinguish themselves with traditional methods that define their character and uniqueness. Jerez and Montilla-Moriles, the two regions that have earned worldwide fame for Spanish fortified wines, both produce biologically and oxidatively aged wines across a broad spectrum of styles: fino, manzanilla, amontillado, palo cortado, oloroso, cream, and pedro ximénez.

From Huelva to Málaga: the Other Andalusian Fortified Wines

However, the production of fortified and oxidative wines in Spain extends beyond these two well-known epicenters. In another Andalusian province, the Condado de Huelva DO includes a category of fortified wines in its regulations, comprising both dry styles (such as condado pálido—akin to fino from Jerez—condado viejo, amontillado, and palo cortado) and liqueur-style fortified wines (pale dry, pale cream, medium, and cream). The zalema grape is a distinctive feature of the wines from this region.

Málaga also stands out within Andalusia for its long-standing tradition of producing fortified wines, primarily sweet moscatel and pedro ximénez, though there are also dry versions. The range is vast, including naturally sweet wines—made from sun-dried grapes—liqueur wines (where fermentation is halted by adding alcohol), and dry fortified wines such as trasañejo, which must age for a minimum of five years. Málaga remains a treasure trove for those seeking unique wines.

Oxidative Aging: A Mediterranean Tradition

Alicante, however, is home to one of the Mediterranean's most famous oxidative aging wines: fondillón. In the 16th and 17th centuries, this wine graced royal courts across Europe and was even mentioned by William Shakespeare in The Merry Wives of Windsor (1602).

Though it no longer enjoys the popularity it once had, fondillón has maintained its identity thanks to dedicated winemakers who have preserved ancestral methods. Made from overripe monastrell grapes left to dry on the vine, it undergoes oxidative aging in a solera system for at least a decade. Unlike other fortified wines, fondillón naturally achieves its high alcohol content through fermentation, without the addition of grape spirit. While sometimes classified as a generous wine due to its high alcohol content (around 18%), it is, strictly speaking, a unique category of its own.

Fondillón reaches its peak expression after decades of aging, making its longevity one of its most remarkable traits.

This noble Alicante wine shares a lineage with other oxidative-aged wines from the Mediterranean coast, such as vi ranci from Valencia and Catalonia. Vi ranci undergoes oxidative aging in low-humidity conditions—a process known as sol i serena—followed by barrel aging for at least a year, sometimes extending for decades. The result is a high-alcohol wine that may, in some cases, include added grape spirit.

Vi ranci wines can be sweet or dry, white or red, with white versions often incorporating garnacha blanca and macabeo, while reds are typically made from garnacha tinta. Rooted in the winemaking traditions of Catalonia and Valencia, these wines remained largely confined to local communities until recent years when a new generation of winemakers revived them. Today, they are increasingly recognized, with Catalan appellations such as Alella DO, Conca de Barberà DO, Empordà DO, Montsant DO, Priorat DOCa, Tarragona DO, and Terra Alta DO—along with Valencia DO—now officially acknowledging vi ranci in their regulations.

The Dorados and Pálidos de Rueda

No exploration of Spanish fortified and oxidative wines would be complete without mentioning Rueda’s ancestral dorados. This unique expression of verdejo was nearly lost in the 1970s when Rueda DO shifted its focus toward fresh white wines, which now dominate the market.

However, a few winemakers remained committed to preserving Rueda’s historic fortified wines, produced through sun-drying grapes and aging in a solera system—similar to Jerez and Montilla-Moriles. With roots dating back to the Catholic Monarchs, these wines survived thanks to the perseverance of a single winery, Hijos de Alberto Gutiérrez (now Bodegas De Alberto), which continued making dorados despite changing market trends. Decades later, their efforts were vindicated when others followed their lead.

In 2024, a European Commission ruling officially recognized the dorados and pálidos of Rueda DO as "fortified wines," a designation previously reserved for wines from Jerez, Montilla-Moriles, and other Andalusian appellations. This long-overdue decision rightfully acknowledges the historical and distinctive nature of these extraordinary wines, making them well worth discovering.

A Selection of Wines

1- Condado Viejo 1918
Bodega: Contreras Ruiz
DO: Condado de Huelva

Made entirely from zalema, the flagship grape of the region, this Condado Viejo is a textbook example of Contreras Ruiz’s style. It undergoes oxidative aging in a solera system using 600-liter oak casks, where it matures in contact with 100-year-old madres (aging lees). The result is an amber-hued fortified wine with complex aromas of almonds, sweet spices, and dried fruits, underpinned by a subtle liqueur-like note.

2- Seco Trasañejo 30 Años
Bodega: Málaga Virgen
DO: Málaga

Produced from pedro ximénez and fortified to 18% ABV, this wine undergoes 30 years of oxidative aging. Its mahogany color, intense nutty and exotic wood aromas, and surprisingly dry profile make it a standout, setting it apart from traditional PX wines from Jerez or Montilla.

3- Fondillón 1996 "Estés donde estés"
Bodega: Bodegas Monóvar
DO: Vinos de Alicante

A benchmark fondillón made from late-harvest monastrell grapes, aged in 1730-liter American oak barrels for 20 years. It boasts honeyed and raisin notes, a balanced sweetness, and a lingering finish of ripe fruit.

4- Abadal Sagristia C-1
Bodega: Abadal
Region: Pla del Bages (non-DO)

A blend of oxidative-aged wines between 40 and 70 years old, sourced from century-old barrels in the Roqueta family’s medieval cellar. This vi ranci is intense, sharp, and layered with flavors of citrus peel, pastry, and aged fruit.

5- De Alberto Dorado
Bodega: Bodegas De Alberto
DO: Rueda

The last remaining producer of Rueda dorados made using traditional methods. Aged in sun-exposed glass demijohns before solera maturation, this verdejo-based wine features a deep golden hue, toasted nut aromas, and flavors of honey, sweet spices, and candied fruit.