May 11 2025

Pepe Vieira

A Poetic Voice of Galicia, Weaving Myth, Memory, and Sea into Avant-garde Dishes Rooted in Ancestral Soul

Haute cuisine in Galicia is a reality. In this part of northern Spain, the culinary tradition of earlier generations coexists with the avant-garde offered by certain chefs, many of whom form part of the Grupo Nove. One of them, a founding member of this group, is Xosé T. Cannas (also known as Pepe Vieira, the name of his two Michelin stars and three Soles Repsol restaurant). This Galician chef (Vigo, 1973) is a great fan of Galician product.

While acknowledging that Galicia's seafood enjoys pride of place, he likes to use ingredients of lesser fame but equally reminiscent of the real Galicia. We refer to broths, pork, sardines and rock fish, and the wide range of tasty peppers - pimientos frescos - grown on local farms. These are products that figure largely in traditional dishes but Xosé T. Cannas insists they also have a role to play in his avant-garde cuisine. Cannas opened their restaurant Pepe Vieira in 2000 in the Galician seaside town of Sanxenxo, after learning in a variety of locations not only in Spain, but also in Canada, Scotland and France.

The name "Pepe Vieira" is a tribute to the chef’s grandfather, Xosé (Pepe), whose family nickname was "Vieira." In Galicia, nicknames often reflect local traditions and familial ties, and "Vieira" (scallop) is also a symbolic reference to the region's maritime culture and its connection to the Camino de Santiago, where the scallop shell is an iconic symbol.By naming the restaurant Pepe Vieira, Xosé T. Cannas honored his roots while establishing a brand deeply tied to Galician identity, creativity, and the fusion of modern cuisine with traditional elements.

"We strive for excellence by choosing the most challenging path.” - Pepe Vieira to Diario de Pontevedra

He gradually made a name for himself amongst local gourmets and the many tourists who visit this part of the Galician coast. Eight years later, he decided to move, and opened up Pepe Vieira Camiño da Serpe, in a spectacular natural environment, where the cuisine is on a par with the biodiversity of the surroundings. This is a restaurant with simple yet relaxing décor and plenty of light, located in the midst of the wonderful Galician countryside, just a few miles from the sea. The situation is the perfect match for this chef's concept of culinary creativity: local produce, interaction with the surroundings, and respect for tradition.

A gastronomic storyteller

Talking about tradition, Cannas crafts dishes deeply rooted in Galician history and mythology, blending traditional culinary techniques with avant-garde innovation. Collaborating with anthropologist Rafael Quintía Pereira, he delves into local legends to inspire his creations. For instance, he reimagines the tale of Ildefonso Graña, a Galician who became a king among the Shuar tribe in the Amazon, by merging traditional Galician seafood preparations with exotic ingredients like coconut, chili, and curry, symbolizing the fusion of two distinct cultures.

"I am deeply rooted in my village origins, yet my cuisine could easily find its place in any world capital," Pepe Vieira told Infobae.

Another one is the onion dish that pays homage to the ancient practice of plañideras—professional mourners who would cry at funerals. This minimalist and evocative dish uses caramelized and blackened onion to symbolize tears and grief, capturing the essence of this somber tradition.

This approach not only pays homage to Galicia's rich cultural heritage but also offers diners a narrative culinary journey that bridges past and present.