May 11 2025

Nieves Barragán

Cooking with the Memory of Spain and the Fire of her Craft, Turning London’s Tables into Vibrant Echoes of her Homeland’s Flavor and Pride

When it comes to Spanish cuisine in the UK, Chef Nieves Barragán is a true trailblazer. Known for her effortless ability to combine traditional recipes with contemporary finesse, Nieves has played a central role in putting Spanish food on the culinary map in London—and beyond. Her passion, authenticity, and culinary prowess have made her one of the most respected chefs in the city.

Nieves was born in 1975 in Santurce, a city in Spain’s Basque Country, a region renowned for its rich food culture. From a young age, she was surrounded by the vibrant flavors and traditions of Spanish cooking, which became an essential part of her identity. Her earliest culinary influences were her family, especially her mother, whose recipes would later inspire Nieves to recreate the comforting tastes of home for diners across London.

Her journey began humbly, but her determination and talent quickly shone through. After moving to London, she worked her way up in the restaurant world, starting with a position at Fino, a tapas restaurant that became a favorite for its high-quality Spanish dishes. Her next big step came when she joined the acclaimed Barrafina group, where she helped elevate the perception of tapas from casual bar food to a fine dining experience.

During her time at Barrafina, Nieves was instrumental in the restaurant’s rise to fame. In fact, her leadership as Executive Chef contributed to one of its locations earning a Michelin star in 2014—a groundbreaking achievement for a Spanish restaurant in the UK. This milestone not only cemented her reputation as a top-tier chef but also demonstrated the potential of Spanish cuisine to compete on the global stage.

"Sabor is like a culinary journey to Spain, where we try to make people feel as if they were at home.” - Nieves Barragán to Diario de Ibiza

From Barrafina to Sabor, a Tale of Two Restaurants

However, Nieves wasn’t content to rest on her laurels. In 2018, she took a bold step and opened her own restaurant, Sabor, which translates to "flavor" in Spanish. Located just off Regent Street, Sabor reflects Nieves’s personal culinary journey. The menu takes diners on a tour of Spain, showcasing everything from Andalusian-style fried fish to hearty Galician stews and the wood-fired grills of Castilla. The restaurant quickly garnered praise for its authenticity and creativity, earning its own Michelin star within its first year.

One of Sabor’s most striking features is its layout, which encourages an interactive dining experience. The open kitchen at the bar allows guests to watch the chefs at work, while the upstairs asador (a traditional Spanish grill) creates a more intimate, communal vibe. Nieves wanted Sabor to feel like an extension of her home, where food is meant to bring people together.

“Spain’s food culture is so diverse. Wherever you go - north, south, east or west - the food scene is so different.” - Nieves Barragán to The Times

Her talent and dedication have not gone unnoticed. Nieves has become a household name among food lovers and has been featured on numerous television programs, podcasts, and food festivals. She’s also a champion for authenticity, working tirelessly to source the best ingredients from Spain to ensure that her dishes stay true to their roots.

But what truly sets Nieves apart is her unwavering passion for sharing the culture and traditions of Spanish food. She has introduced countless Londoners to the joys of eating Stuffed Piquillo Pepper with Braised Ox Tail, percebes (goose barnacles), pulpo (octopus) with mojo sauce from Canary Islands or melt-in-your-mouth cochinillo (suckling pig). More importantly, she’s shown that Spanish cuisine is as rich, diverse, and sophisticated as any other culinary tradition.