Rather than serve canned food, Olivella cooks a number of traditional lata dishes, such as squid in its own ink, then serves them in fresh tins. The original Barlata was still in its nascent stages when Olivella first visited Austin six years ago. Along with running B44, the upscale Spanish eatery he opened in San Francisco in 1999, and overseeing the new restaurant’s development, he was teaching Catalan cooking around the country.