Sep 01 2024

Ángel León

Cooking the sea in its broadest sense is the dream of a bold, innovative chef who is not afraid to go beyond in their quest to forge new paths

Acclaimed as the "Chef of the Seas," Ángel León transcends the conventional boundaries of culinary exploration. Renowned for his ceaseless pursuit of excellence in extracting the finest from fish and shellfish, León stands as a maritime maven, blending his culinary expertise with an insatiable curiosity for the lesser-known treasures of the sea. With a background rooted in sailing and a profound love for the ocean, León has ascended to a position of immense prestige among peers, researchers, and the culinary aficionados who savor his innovative creations.

From childhood, Ángel León, born in 1977, fostered an intimate connection with the sea, nurtured by his father. Before donning the chef's hat, he sailed the seas, exploring the straits of Gibraltar, the coasts of Mauritania, the Norwegian fjords, and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. Hailing from Andalusia, León honed his culinary skills at the Taberna del Alabardero Cooking School in Seville. His culinary journey included stints at esteemed establishments like Casa Irene (Arties, Catalonia), El Faro del Puerto (El Puerto de Santa María, Andalusia), and international experiences in Bordeaux, Buenos Aires, Miami, and Toledo, where he delved into Sephardic cooking.

In 2005, León's culinary dreams materialized when he opened his own restaurant, Aponiente, in El Puerto de Santa María, Andalusia, that currently holds three Michelin stars.

"The real revolution will come when scientists and cooks work together.” - Ángel León

Innovating at the Intersection of Science and Culinary Art

Inspired by Ferran Adrià's work, León embarked on a groundbreaking collaboration with research centers. Together with institutions such as the Sea Science at the University of Cádiz, Marine Biology at the University of Alicante, and Education at the University of Castile-La Mancha, León initiated studies on how different fishing methods impact the flavor and texture of fish. This pioneering work laid the foundation for his ongoing exploration at the intersection of science and culinary art.

One notable outcome of this collaboration was the development of the "Clarimax," a culinary equipment innovation for clarifying stocks, enhancing transparency without compromising flavor. León's commitment to research extends to his discoveries for avant-garde cuisine, including the utilization of typically discarded fish parts like eyes and dehydrated fish scales. In 2009, he became the first chef in the world to develop plankton as an ingredient for human consumption.

"We must look at the sea with hunger; the future of food depends on it." - Ángel León to Harper's Bazaar

Revolutionizing Culinary Practices

Ángel León's avant-garde approach to Spanish cuisine involves revolutionary techniques. He discovered that the vitreous humor in fresh fish eyes serves as a natural emulsifier, creating an "airy" effect. León harnessed marine air to aromatize baked fish dishes and devised a technique using dehydrated fish scales to produce gelatinous, caviar-like balls.

His commitment to sustainability is evident in his study of assorted fish caught by trawl-nets, often discarded for lacking commercial value. León's innovative techniques include preparing fish concentrates for stews and paellas, dried and restructured fish products, and fish burgers, showcasing the gastronomic potential of often-overlooked marine species.

In September 2015, Aponiente reopened in El Puerto de Santa María, housed in a 17th-century tide mill and salt house, signaling a new chapter in León's culinary journey. The historic setting, surrounded by water and a unique ecosystem, became a canvas for his avant-garde marine creations.

Ángel León continued to expand his culinary influence, with the opening of the Alevante in 2016 in  Hotel Meliá Sancti Petri Gran Lujo in Chiclana (Cádiz). His work here, again focused in marine products and its possibilities,  has been awarded with one Michelin Star.

2023 has been a great year for Ángel León. The FAO, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, recognized the chef from Cadiz as a Food Hero for his work promoting sustainable seafood cuisine and for raising awareness about water management. He also presented his latest discovery at San Sebastián Gastronomika congress. One that could transform the world of food: an extraordinary source of plant proteins of marine origin: Canavalia rosea. “I believe that the true future of humanity lies in looking towards the sea.”, says this chef, summarizing his work.