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This 3 Michelin-starred Spanish chef known for his innovative take on Andalusian cuisine leads Noor, a restaurant in Córdoba that reinterprets Al-Andalus culinary traditions in a contemporary, avant-garde style
To travel, to try new things, to see the world. Paco Morales (Córdoba, 1982) is well aware of the importance of these things for a chef. He knew it right from the start, when he decided to turn his attention to gastronomy. As is only natural, he occasionally had doubts but his determination remained, and his love of food and cooking was always able to overcome any obstacles in his way.Morales left his home town of Cordoba and his family with the sole aim of becoming a widely-respected chef.
Though calm by nature, with a touch of shyness, the sort of person who likes to stop and think before answering, in the kitchen he is demanding – with the products used, with his team, and with all the work involved in serving his customers.His high standards have marked the whole of his career, which included periods at the Guggenheim restaurant in Bilbao, Mugaritz under Andoni Luis Aduriz and elBulli under Ferran Adrià, after which he returned to Mugaritz. There he was able to work alongside one of his heroes and best friends. Morales is only too happy to admit the influence of Aduriz on his culinary philosophy, but he knew the time would come to go it alone.
"Without history and culture, Noor wouldn't exist." - Paco Morales to Autenticapremium.net
His solo career includes stages at Senzone, the restaurant of the Hospes hotel in Madrid (2007). After that, in 2009, he moved to The Hotel Ferrero by Paco Morales in Bocairent (Valencia), where he earned a Michelin star. There, in peaceful surroundings infused with aromas from the nearby Mediterranean, Morales applied his artistic sensitivity to the presentation of his dishes, often wrapping them in a false minimalism that unveils a torrent of flavors and textures. He combined this period with his work as executive chef at El Palacete de la Seda (Murcia) in 2012, where he blended his culinary innovation with the best products from the region of Murcia. In April 2013, Paco concluded his time as head chef at Hotel Ferrero and began thinking about new projects for the future. He spent two years in Madrid at the Al Trapo restaurant, located in the Hotel de Las Letras on Gran Vía, but in 2016, he returned to his native Córdoba, where he opened his restaurant Noor, with the aim of recovering Andalusia's Arab cuisine through avant-garde techniques.
An evolution through history
Noor restaurant in Córdoba, under the leadership of chef Paco Morales, offers a unique culinary journey inspired by the history of Al-Andalus. The restaurant's menus evolve each year, focusing on a different period of Andalusian history, beginning with the 10th century and progressing through to the 18th century. This immersive approach highlights the historical richness and culinary diversity of the region, with dishes reflecting the various cultural influences that shaped Andalusian cuisine over the centuries.
"Each day, I imagine that I'm cooking for Abd al-Rahman III in Medina Azahara." - Paco Morales to El País
Some of Noor's signature dishes, like the pine nut and green apple dish with ras el hanout, showcase the restaurant's commitment to blending ancient spices and flavors with modern techniques. Other notable creations include lobster with cardamom and white turnip, as well as innovative takes on traditional ingredients such as quail, morcilla, and almonds. The menu also emphasizes textures, with dishes like squid served with durum wheat pasta, and macerated oysters paired with spinach jelly and sheep’s cream.
Noor’s concept and dedication to historical culinary exploration earned it a Michelin star in 2018, a second star in 2020, and in 2024, the restaurant achieved the prestigious third Michelin star, marking its place as one of the leading restaurants in Spain. This journey from historical exploration to modern innovation has been a central aspect of its success.