One of the pioneers and great exponents of New Basque Cuisine, Subijana masters a personal and creative cuisine with traditional roots
Pedro Subijana, born in the picturesque San Sebastián in 1948, is not just a chef; he is an embodiment of passion, innovation, and a warm smile framed by a distinctive mustache. With over three decades of unwavering dedication, Subijana has ascended to the summit of the culinary world, earning his third Michelin star in 2006. Alongside his wife Ada, a partner in both life and gastronomy, he orchestrates the culinary symphony that is Akelarre—an iconic restaurant perched on the slopes of Monte Igueldo, overlooking the Concha bay, the island of Santa Clara, and the Bay of Biscay.
Pedro's journey into the culinary realm was an unexpected divergence from a path initially leading towards medicine. A last-minute decision redirected him from a prestigious university in Pamplona to the Madrid Hospitality School, and later to the school of Luis Irízar in Zarauz, whom he fondly refers to as his maestro. This journey was marked by experiences in Tolosa, Hernani, and Estella, but the magnetic pull of his hometown, San Sebastián, was undeniable.
In 1975, he assumed the reins at Akelarre, marking the inception of a culinary adventure that would shape not only his destiny but also the trajectory of Basque gastronomy.
"We were very revolutionary but we consider that we have not stopped being" - Pedro Subijana to EFE news agency
New Basque Cuisine: Pushing Culinary Frontiers
The late 1970s saw Subijana immerse himself in the revolutionary movement of New Basque Cuisine. Influenced by luminaries like Paul Bocuse and the spirit of French Nouvelle Cuisine, a group of local chefs, including Juan María Arzak, sought to reimagine traditional Basque cooking. Subijana describes this movement as one that "aimed to focus on seasonal products but adding a large dose of imagination and pushing back the frontiers.”
Embracing this avant-garde approach, Subijana became a trailblazer. His culinary philosophy, rooted in respect for Basque tradition and the finest local produce, became the hallmark of his artistry. "Throughout the meal, we take care of every last detail to ensure that the occasion is a memorable one," emphasizes Subijana—a commitment evident in every aspect of the Akelarre experience.
Innovation as a Passion
For Subijana, learning is not just a professional necessity; it's a passion. The menus at Akelarre change every two months, reflecting an ongoing journey of exploration and creativity. His commitment extends beyond the walls of his restaurant; he collaborates with cooking schools, shares his expertise on television programs, and has authored books that span the spectrum from home cooking to high-level gastronomy.
"I like sharing. Question everything. Set goals and new challenges. I would have projects and enthusiasm for 40 more years" - Pedro Subijana
In July 2017, Subijana added another jewel to his crown—a luxury hotel at Akelarre. As part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux network, the hotel is a harmonious marriage of opulence and Subijana's world-renowned cuisine. Here, guests not only savor the taste of luxury but also experience the culinary artistry that has defined Subijana's legacy. “What I want to do now is to enjoy Akelarre. I have no intention of retiring. I have surrounded myself with a wonderful team: human resources, management, head waiters, etc. I wanted this to last after I’m no longer here”.