Sep 01 2024
Toño Pérez
This master of the kitchen has succeeded in putting Extremadura on the map, one of the regions with lesser-known cuisine: 3 Michelin stars endorse a project with Ibérico pork as its cornerstone
The variety of the Spanish regional culinary repertoire, its top-quality local products and the rise of haute cuisine over the last two decades have expanded the map of essential Spanish restaurants beyond the classic centers of the Basque Country and Catalonia on the one hand, and Madrid as the capital on the other. All over Spain, gourmet travelers can expect to be surprised and delighted by both traditional cuisine and updated versions of it.This is certainly the case of Extremadura, a region in the center/southeast of Spain sharing a long border with Portugal. Here, according to national and international food writers, is one of Europe's best restaurants, Atrio, in the historic city of Cáceres, whose old center is a World Heritage site protected by UNESCO.
Toño Pérez, the culinary mastermind behind Atrio restaurant has ascended to the highest echelons of gastronomy, earning the prestigious recognition of three Michelin stars in the 2024 Michelin Guide, an elusive recognition that finally has arrived for the project. In 2021 they expanded the Atrio universe, creating a more casual concept in Torre de Sande restaurant, situated in a 15th-century palace with its magnificent tower covered in ivy. Both the dining room and kitchen are meticulously tended to, offering simple, eclectic, and delicious cuisine.
"We are fighters; we've been at it all our lives, 35 years now with Atrio. The 3 Michelin Stars are a pat on the back that us humans need.” - Toño Pérez
A lifelong project
Partnered with José Polo, their journey from childhood friends to esteemed restaurateurs embodies a shared passion for culinary excellence. Atrio, founded in 1986, pioneered a new era of dining in Extremadura, setting uncompromising standards for quality and garnering acclaim far beyond the region. Embracing the rich tapestry of Extremadura's culinary heritage, Pérez showcases the region's bounty through dishes crafted with finesse and reverence. From succulent cuts of Ibérico pork -in fact the ibérico park from Extremadura is the main ingredient of his menu- to the renowned Torta del Casar cheese, each ingredient speaks of tradition and terroir. The restaurant's ambiance mirrors its gastronomic philosophy – elegant, subtle, and steeped in history, offering a sensory journey through the heart of Spain.
Some dishes from the ‘Cochino’ (Ibérico pork) menu include the tartare of ‘lomo doblado’, a traditional cold cut from the Extremadura region; cracklings with scallops with citrus and scallion whey; pork jowl flan with caviar; pig's head with langoustine and creamy poultry juice; or Iberian chocolate with coffee and ham. A journey through all the possibilities of pork, from snacks to desserts that seems only possible at Atrio.
“Extremadura is one of the most humble areas, but the Michelin Stars can attract travelers interested in culture and gastronomy.” - Toño Pérez
In 2012 Toño Pérez and José Polo presented the new location of Atrio Hotel & Restaurant, in Cáceres historic center: a space reimagined by architects Emilio Tuñón and Luis Mansilla. It boasts fourteen spacious and exclusive rooms adorned with elegant simplicity, complemented by marvelous works of art and unique views.
Yet, it's not just the culinary prowess that sets Atrio apart; it's also their unparalleled wine selection curated by José Polo. With meticulous care, Polo has assembled one of Europe's most comprehensive wine cellars, earning global recognition, including Wine Spectator's coveted title of World's Best Winelist in 2003 and 2004.
Together, Pérez and Polo have elevated Atrio to an iconic status, beckoning gourmands from around the world to indulge in an unforgettable epicurean experience. And presenting the cuisine of a rich and relatively unknown land, Extremadura, to the world.