Dec 05 2023

More Than a Can: A Perfect Gift for Foodies

These snacks have taken on a fresh life, with haute packaging and Michelin star-worthy preparations

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by Marti Buckley - @martibuckley

Rifling through a Spanish pantry carries with it a few guarantees. Olive oil. Wine. Vinegar. Olives. And, most assuredly, conservas. From sardines to peppers, canning seasonal produce has been a long-standing culinary tradition in Spain. Not only does this mean the Spanish are excellent at popping out an impromptu appetizer of mussels on toothpicks with a glass of vermouth; it also means they have perfected and refined the preservation process, resulting in some of the world’s best canned fish, meat, and vegetables.

Shopping for conservas is a joy, a head-spinning tour through the best the Atlantic Ocean has to offer—octopus, sardines, tuna, anchovies, mackerel, squid. The variety extends to landlubbers as well, with cans of ruby-red peppers, pâtés, asparagus— you name it, the Spaniards preserve it.

Whether you are packing your pantry or looking for something shelf-stable to stuff a stocking, the world of Spanish conservas deserves your undivided attention—there is always something unexpected. Shelves at every supermarket in Spain burst with tins, and those at a distance will be happy to know nothing is more shippable than a delicious tin of tuna or spicy sardines.

In fact, the Spanish preserves industry is considered as one of the best in the world. One reason is its long tradition, that dates back to the coastal factories in Roman times. What one finds opening one of these preserves is a feast for the senses in which the product is a high quality one. The preserves also speak about origin and delivers the flavor of the different Spanish territories: one finds in them mussels from Galicia, anchovies from L'Escala or bluefin tuna from Barbate, to name just a few examples. Follow along for our selection of the best Spanish canned preserves, from surf to turf, which just happen to make gorgeous gifts.

Lago Paganini/ Balea

Above all, canning is about tradition, and Lago Paganini dates back over 100 years. Their bright, cheery packaging has lovely retro vibes and encloses a wide variety of seafood from the Rías Gallegas. Choose from one of their ten different mini sardine tins, flavored with ingredients ranging from Padrón peppers to citrusy lemons.

Güeyu Mar

This destination restaurant in Asturias, headed by chef Abel Álvarez, has become as famous for its conservas as it is for its long lunches. All manner of seafood, from cockles to sardines to luxurious baby eels, is passed over the smoky kiss of coals before being preserved. The result is an absolutely delicious, modern take on traditional canned seafood. Try the octopus or the mussels, fan favorites, and revel in the playful illustrated packaging.

Olasagasti

Over 100 years ago, Salvatore Orlando landed in Spain from Sicily, married a Basque woman named Simona Olasagasti, and founded a food empire that included Spain’s most famous tomato sauce, Orlando. Today, Olasagasti is one of the best coastal canning businesses in Spain. They have a line of prepared dishes of anchovies, bacalao and other fish, but the star of the house is the tuna. Fished one by one in the Cantabrian Sea, it is packed with utmost care—the tuna belly melts in your mouth. 

Ar de Arte  

This modern upstart from Galicia was formed by a group of young people with ties to the world of canning and fishing. Their focus is on the seafood that makes Galicia famous: octopus, mussels, cockles, and razor clams. Every can is a miniature wall-worthy piece of art, literally—they rely on artists from Galicia to illustrate their packaging. The star of the Fernando Rei limited edition line is the delicious variegated scallops with garlic and whole cayenne.

La Catedral  

While canned seafood gets a lot of attention, the preserved vegetables of Spain are a true national treasure. La Catedral de Navarra has a policy of purity, conserving the flavor and freshness of the local vegetables they harvest in their line of amazing preserves. The piquillo and crystal peppers are so silky, they will make you rethink everything you know about peppers, with their glistening ruby red shining out from the elegant packaging.

Petra Mora

Petra Mora is a one-stop shop for conservas of all sorts. Rarely will you see as much variety in a single shop, and even more rarely will the packaging be so chic and modern. Petra Mora was founded by Uxía and María Domínguez, who also founded one of Spain’s most popular fashion brands, Bimba Y Lola. Here you can find the widest range of typical Spanish preserves, even grelos, a green used widely in Galician cuisine.

La Curiosa

The aptly named La Curiosa was founded by Cristóbal Fernández, whose mother worked in a cannery and served an open can with most meals at home. When he decided to take up the business, his focus was on a fun, approachable packaging, and exploration of what, exactly, was possible when it came to conservas. The result is a wide variety of premium seafood, including tuna with curry and line of creamy pates.

Caviar Riofrío

Founded in 1963, in the tiny town of Loja in Granada, Riofrío is one of the world’s top producers of caviar outside of Russia and Iran. The organically cultivated sturgeon makes a balanced, fine caviar with an intense yet delicate flavor. The packaging is equally elegant, and even more so if you can grab one of the limited-edition pieces inspired by the local Nasrid culture’s detailed inlays.

Real Conservera Española

Founded in 1920 in Galicia, Real Conservera Española is about top-quality seafood first and foremost. From sea urchin eggs caught by hand to their famous sardines, classic and artisanal is the name of the game. Try the selection of calamari and baby squid, packed in either olive oil or its own ink. The attractive black and white packaging looks gorgeous piled up, so try them all.

El Viejo Pescador

You can bet that the winner of the Great Taste award for Best Octopus in the World is probably outstanding when it comes to conservas. One of their cutest packages also happens to be the most delicious: The Mussels in Escabeche with Picofino Vermouth. Endless tests resulted in the perfect product, a mix of mussels, cooked in vinegar and then macerated in vermouth and dried orange peel.

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