Goliardo Caíño 06, by Bodegas Forjas del Salnés (DO Rías Baixas). Raúl Pérez and Rodrigo Méndez have given a new lease of life to Galicia’s native Caíño variety, helping the DO Rías Baixas reinvent itself with wines like this one. Creativity and originality in a wine that stands in a class of its own, this purebred Atlantic wine links up the contrasting flavors in this dish–smoke and fruit, coals and acidity. The peppers are clearly influenced by the vine wood fragrances.