How to Prepare a Spanish-Style Barbecue

Barbecues are indispensable during the warm weather seasons, and Spaniards take grilling very seriously. Everyone can grill at home, but if you want to grill like an expert, it's a good idea to take the advice of one. We ask Íñigo Pérez, also known as “Urrechu" with restaurants in cities as Madrid, Barcelona or Marbella. We also take in consideration the (great) advices of Óscar Vidal, who runs Michelin-starred O’Pazo restaurant in Padrón (A Coruña, Galicia). And finally, the words from the man behind the best steak in the World -as Time says-: José Gordon from El Capricho (Jiménez de Jamuz, León, Castile - León), the place where fire meets the dry-aged meat of oxen, almost mythical creatures.

The product, of course. Spain is a paradise for barbecue lovers. Although it's usually associated with meat, fish, mollusks and vegetables can be added to the list. Foods that can be grilled includes many top products. For meats, there are the different cuts of beef and Ibérico pork, as well as chorizo or morcilla from Burgos or Beasain (Basque Country). Of course, fish like turbot and gilthead sea bream are also delicious grilled, and finally there are vegetables. Spain has a wonderful selection: eggplants, peppers, asparagus... even mushrooms, when in season, are a great option.

Charcoal, the basic fossil fuel. To get the most out of the grill, Urrechu recommends “charcoal, because it has a very high calorific value, around 450 Fº degrees." The key is to grill when the charcoal has finished burning and never to do it over a direct flame but, rather, to use the remaining embers.

Different wood for each food. Wood is always added to the charcoal. And it's never the same; it changes depending on the food we are grilling: “For vegetables, I use orange wood to add citrus and earthy nuances. For fish, I use olive wood, because the sea reminds me of refried olive oil. When it comes to meat, I always use oak wood”, says Urrechu. Vidal from O’Pazo uses holm oak for seafood but prefers oak when it comes to meat.

Remove Excess Fat and Temper the Meat. Although it’s impossible to have cuts of beef like those José Gordón serves in his restaurant on a domestic barbecue, it’s worth listening to two important tips from the man who runs one of the best steakhouses in the world. “We remove the subcutaneous fat and cook it separately. Also, each piece must be tempered before cooking by taking it out of the cold two hours before cooking.” There’s a third step that involves placing the piece on the top part of the grill before subjecting it to cooking, Gordón explains, until it reaches 102ºF and is ready to be cooked.

Vegetables Have Their Own Protection; Shellfish Do Not. One thing Vidal from O’Pazo is certain of is that every product has a different relationship with fire. “In the case of vegetables, they have their own perfect ‘packaging’ that withstands the fire beautifully. Even if the outer layers burn, you just need to peel them to access the center, which will be perfect.” With shellfish, the opposite is true: you need to be careful that the live flame doesn’t burn the shell, which could cause grit to get into the meat of the animal, resulting in an unpleasant texture. It’s better to opt for a less direct flame and to cook the product for a shorter time.

A matter of colors. According to Urrechu, once the product has been sealed, it should be moved away from the heat source. "That way, the exterior part of the meat is sealed and has a darker color and a crunchy texture. The next layer of the meat is not as cooked, and finally, the center is less cooked and more tender, pink and juicy.” Gordón suggests a different option: "I prefer the outer part not to be too charred so that the bite is more pleasant and doesn't require much effort." In this case, you don't get the three different colors but rather a single, more uniform color that slightly changes in tone: "A very fine golden hue," in the words of El Capricho’ boss.

What cuts of meat can you cook on a grill? Spain is a true paradise for enjoying a thousand and one cuts. “In the case of steak, we can use T-bone, lomo (sirloin), solomillo (tenderloin)… I've even created my own cut, the chulillo (meaning cool in English); instead of leaving the bone in the T-bone steak, I leave it attached to the sirloin,” Urrechu says. Meanwhile, fresh Ibérico pork is an inexhaustible source of enjoyable cuts: secreto (fore loin), presa (shoulder loin), lagarto (lizard)… with hiqh quality fat, an awesome combination that works great when grilled.” Gordón puts different cuts of beef on the grill at El Secreto, but he prepares them boneless so that the cooking is uniform and that is how he presents them on the table.

The juice from the meat is... gold. Gordón tries to ensure that the fat from the beef chops (or any noble animal) that melts on the grill doesn't go to waste. "It's gold; that fat should stay with the meat, and whatever drips off can be used to brush vegetables, for example, and give them an extra touch."

Dressings, an important part. Urrechu has even created his own dressing: “ajilimoli, made with chopped vegetables and raw garlic, parsley, oil, lemon and salt. It's delicious." He also recommends another group of essential Spanish sauces: the Canary Islands mojos. "Both the red and green sauces are wonderful and can be served with meat and fish.” Urrechu especially likes to add a touch of spice, which is “a way to enhance the flavor but does so in a balanced way.” On the other hand, Vidal from O'Pazo prefers to stick to "just oil and garlic" so that the product can speak for itself.

The chefs eats… when they can. If there’s one indispensable rule, it’s that the person in charge of preparing the food must never leave the grill. "You have to let yourself get into it, and enjoy. This might mean that the cook ends up eating after everyone else, but that’s okay. The most important things is enjoying the process,” says Urrechu. Grilling is a way of life (in summer) and doing it like Spaniards do is simply the best!