Torrezno: the Rebirth of the Ultimate Guilty Pleasure

There's a running joke about torreznos, where people refer to them as “the real energy bars,” a clear, tongue-in-cheek reference to the bars made with nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients that athletes usually take to boost their endurance. There's truth in that comparison: torreznos are high in calories (450 kcal per 100 grams) but they're also natural, with no sugar or other added ingredients.

But, what exactly are torreznos, that trendy tapa that made a comeback a few years ago from absolute ostracism? Well, it's a dish made from pork belly marinated in pimentón and salt and cured naturally. People are especially familiar with them in Soria (Castile-León), where torreznos have a quality seal that establishes, among other criteria, a fundamental rule: that it have a crispy, golden crust on one side and a tender, lean fat on the other side. This fatty side must account for more than 50% of the total torrezno because (and here comes the good part), besides its exquisite flavor, the main power of the torrezno is its addictive combination of textures—the crunchy outside and the tender and sweet inside, when it's prepared properly. It also has a nutritional profile that highlights its protein, vitamins B, C and D, and calcium and minerals, such as phosphorus and iron.

Tradition and recovery

The origin of this food could be traced back to shepherds and wool merchants, who distributed it throughout Spain. Traditionally, it's possible to find torreznos in both Castillas (Castile-León and Castile-La Mancha), and also in Andalusia, where they're called chicharrones. Lazarillo de Tormes (published in 1554), one of the most important books of Spanish literature, mentions torreznos, among other foods, and in the Middle Ages it was considered a delicacy in Castilian villages.

Currently, there are eight companies that produce torreznos with the Torrezno de Soria quality seal—just over 2,700 tons of product with an economic value of almost 20 million euros in 2023. Their sales performance in recent years has been off the charts, registering an increase of 65% over 2021.

After a period of relative oblivion, torreznos are once again in the spotlight, in bars as well as gastronomic restaurants, some of them with Michelin stars, where the contrast of textures favors this humble recipe. Elena Lucas, from La Lobita (one Michelin star in Navalena, Soria), makes torrezno ice cream, and Francisco de Gregorio, from Virrey Palafox restaurant (El Burgo de Osma, Soria), serves it in a sandwich with sriracha sauce.

How to prepare it at home

In addition to eating it in restaurants and bars, torreznos can be prepared at home from two different products, using a slightly more complicated process and also a simple one. One is to get some marinated pork belly. First  you have to reduce its moisture content, leaving it out of the refrigerator and the package for 24 hours. The drier it is, the more it will rise in the pan, and the crispier it will get.

It should be cut into strips measuring approximately one and a half centimeters, and cooked first in olive oil over low heat for half an hour, always with the crust down. This will allow the crust to puff up. Once this is done, each strip should be fried over high heat for 10 minutes on each side until they're crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.

There are also pre-cut and pre-cooked torreznos, where you only have to dry them out (for an hour or so) and fry them over high heat, turning each piece for about 10 minutes. The goal in both cases is for the torrezno to be crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, ensuring that it's not too toasted or hard.

‘Torrezno’ pairings

The only question that remains now is what to serve with a delicious torrezno tapa. There are several options and they all work well. The most obvious is a cold beer, which is perfect for pairing with a dish that's high in fat. Young red wines from Ribera del Duero DO that still have a certain lightness also go well, and they're always delicious with a glass of bubbly: a Cava DO wine helps cleanse the palate between bite and bite because... having just one is totally out of the question. No one can resist the "real energy bars!"