Miguel Maestre: "In Australia, they're crazy about burnt Basque-style cheesecake"

Some people are a whirlwind, but Miguel Maestre (Murcia, 1979) takes it to the next level. In a phone conversation with Foods & Wines from Spain, he's chatty, energetic, and witty... and that's while he's sitting and driving! It's no wonder this Spanish chef has won over the hearts of Australians since he arrived nearly 20 years ago. Today, he's not just a top chef, but also a TV star, bringing his lively personality to fun and educational shows.  And he's made his way into the shopping carts of Australians, with more than 100 products with a Spanish spirit bearing his name available in supermarkets across the country!

Tell us about your product line...

I have over 100 products bajo la marca Miguel Maestre, and I make sure everything has a Spanish touch. The vinegar has to be from Jerez, the pimentón must be from Spain, and the chips I sell are made by Rubio, who, like me, is a company from Murcia... Even my line of plates and cutlery is geared towards tapas, charcuterie boards for jamón... Besides paella and chorizo, one product that’s grown incredibly popular is the burnt Basque-style cheesecake. People here in Australia have gone crazy for it! I’ve managed to bring products like Calasparra rice and Manchego cheese to Australia, and that makes me proud. They can be bought online on my website (https://maestreenterprises.com.au/) and at any Woolworths supermarket.

So, what do Australians love the most?

There are two things they go crazy for: chicken and chorizo. And together, even more so. To the point that I sell a chicken and chorizo rice dish in my product line, and it flies off the shelves. But, of course, chorizo is the best-seller...

How did you end up in Australia?

When I was 20, I moved to Edinburgh because a friend lived there. I worked in several restaurants as a kitchen hand, and that’s where I met my wife. We came to Australia with a one-way ticket, and I kept training. I would go to restaurants, and they’d have me chopping 300 onions. And I chopped them. I never minded hard work. I eventually became Head Chef with Tony Bilson, who was a huge name here, at his restaurant Number One Wine Bar.

Then you decided to open your own restaurant...

Yes, the spark was meeting Ferran Adrià when he came to Sydney to promote his book 'A Day at elBulli.' We met, and he invited me to cook at his restaurant. Against all odds, I went there for a stint. It inspired me so much that when I got back, I decided to open El Toro Loco in Manly, a beach area in Sydney. That was in 2010.

What was El Toro Loco like?

At the time, it was the biggest Spanish restaurant in Australia. I remember the opening process as total madness... I opened it a week after my wedding! In my mind, it was like a beach bar, but in Australia. We served 600 customers... we started with authentic paella valenciana, black rice, pig's trotters... But soon, we had to tweak the recipes. Valencian paella, made with rabbit and snails, was a bit too much for the Australian palate. We had to evolve without losing the essence of traditional Spanish cuisine.

What kind of adjustments did you make?

Well, some things worked right from the start, and others I had to tweak. The rice started to have chorizo, a Spanish ingredient that Australians love. Take churros, for example—in Spain, they’re a breakfast item, but I started offering them as desserts with a slightly modified dough that was soft inside and crispy outside. I stuck with certain things like cod, and eventually, they came around... especially since I make cod croquetas that are to die for! (Laughs). There's a Spanish saying, "When in Rome, do as the Romans do," and that’s what I did. Good croquetas always work: they’re an icon of Spanish cuisine.

Did El Toro Loco pave the way for more Spanish restaurants?

I think so. It led to a trend of more Spanish restaurants popping up in Australia. But it wasn’t just me. There are other chefs like Frank Camorra, who had a restaurant called MoVida in Melbourne (certified with the Restaurants from Spain seal, which recognizes and supports restaurant initiatives around the globe focused on authentic cuisine and produce from Spain that guarantee the quality standards), and Javier Codina from the restaurant Moda. They were important too.

You’re also a real TV star in Australia—imagino que te ha servido como plataforma para difundir el producto y las recetas españolas

I never planned on a TV career! It happened by accident. I started helping with pastry prep for cooking shows, always off-camera, until one day, the producer asked why I didn’t give it a shot in front of the camera, saying I had potential. That’s how my TV career started. On television, I was the first person to show Australians how to make meatballs, Spanish omelette, paella... Even something as simple as a ham sandwich or sangria.

Over time, you closed El Toro Loco, but you created a line of over 100 products sold in supermarkets under your name, and you’ve also written books

When my daughter was born, I decided to focus more on being a dad than a chef, so I left the restaurant. And yes, I’ve published numerous books where I explain how to prepare patatas bravas or roast suckling pig, but also recipes that connect me to my roots, like partridge in Jumilla wine.

Are there any other Spanish products that are gaining popularity in Australia?

I’d say quality anchovies, like those from Santoña (Cantabria), are really taking off because people here are realizing how excellent they are. The real stuff always works in the end... I’ve also noticed that to win over Australia’s taste buds (laughs), you’ve got to innovate, which is why I’m launching a Murcian-style almond horchata. I’m also working on a ‘ready meal’ paella that people can just pop in the microwave, heat up, and eat.

You've been away from Spain for 20 years—how would you define Spanish cuisine?

It’s clear that Spanish chefs are the best in the world right now—just look at the rankings. But there’s something more: Spanish food goes beyond just the food itself. That ‘something more’ has to do with our passion for life... I wish I could bottle it up and sell it!