Surprising Pairings for your Special Occasions

Want to celebrate with friends or family the Spanish way? Make sure you know all the classics must-haves. Jamón ibérico, anchovies, a variety of cheeses—from Manchego to Cabrales— traditional desserts… and, of course, many different wines. Here are some ideas.

Canned seafood pairings with Txakolis

One of the biggest delicacies that Spain produces in canned seafood. And not just tuna; the variety is huge, from anchovies from Santoña o L’ Escala and cured in salt for more that 2 years to the finest Galician mussels and navajas (razor clams)… What better to pair with this meticulously chosen seafood, which looks like art in a can, than local wine. Canned seafood is produced mostly in Galicia and the Basque Country, so Txakoli from the Basque Country is a great option. It used to be considered as easy-going young white wine, suitable only for pintxos, but lately we’re seeing not only more serious, aged wines, but also some very interesting traditional sparkling wines, like Izar-Leku, made with Hondarrabi Zuri grapes from Getaria. It can completely change the perception of wines from the Atlantic region.

Climate change has made it far harder to obtain the right acidity in the Mediterranean part of Spain. But Basque Country is only benefiting from warmer temperatures and both white and red grape varieties are able to achieve a better level of ripeness. This allows winemakers to produce very different styles of wines, from aged white wines with more than 5 years in the bottle, like K5 from famous chef Karlos Arguinano and his friends to surprising sparkling wines.

When tasted blind, it’s hard to guess the origin of Izar-Leku as it doesn’t remind of Mediterranean sparkling wines from Penedàs or inland versions from Extremadura or Requena. It feels colder, sharper and much more mineral. Not requiring many years on the lees to show the complexity, it is full of character from the outset, And it’s perfect with canned seafood. This treat is delicate but full of umami, so benefits from a wine that will respect its taste, adding to its flavour without overwhelming or taking the lead. This wine is neither scared of pimentón, which is used in some canned mussels, nor vinegar found in boquerones. It is firm, strong and aware of it’s inherent character. Like Basque Country culture, so special and so proud of itself.

High-end Ibérico ham with Jerez and vinos de pasto

It’s hard to imagine a Spanish banquet without jamón ibérico. People joke that even vegetarians eat jamón once in a while, as it’s not just a regular meat, it’s pure delicacy. It’s an art to know how to choose the right jamón, and my advice would be simple. Get the best one you can find and be prepared for a challenging pairing. Its delicate creamy taste, with nutty undertones, must be respected, so look at similar qualities in wine. Aged sparkling wine is best, such as Cava Gran Reserva from Mestres, which ages some wines for more that 10 years, or any limited release of Gramona would work perfectly. Please don’t pair good ibérico with red wine. While it may seem like an easy option,  the tannin will hide all the beauty of a quality ibérico ham. It deserves respect, it’s not like ‘any other ham’ as some might perceive it, it’s different and unique.

And in the world of Spanish wines, what is equally different and unique like ibérico ham? Sorry Rioja, Ribera and even Garnacha, it’s not you, it is Jerez, in my opinion, one of the greatest of all the Spanish wines. It’s one of the most food-friendly wines that can pair with literally everything, so you can cook a whole dinner just to serve with different styles of Sherry. As for jamón or even canned seafood, look for dry and crisp Manzanilla en Rama or a new trendy style of Vino de Pasto, unfortified Palomino, usually made from single vineyard and slightly aged under velo (flower veil). “Menos velo, mas suelo,” says Ramiro Ibáñez, legendary winemaker from Cota 45. It means “Less flor, more soil.” It’s important to remember that terroir rules even in Jerez, which helps make this such as fantastic region.

Why Palomino and ibérico ham? Because both are delicate yet full of energy, with plenty of umami, creaminess, as well as some earthy and nutty tones. The taste of ham feels so much more intense with a sip of this wine. The salty part of the meat mixes with the minerality and physical saltiness of the wine, present from the vineyards’ in Sanlúcar de Barrameda close proximity to the ocean, especially in Pago de Miraflores and Pago de Carrascal. A true unity of land and sea – what could better?

Classic baked fish with ¿red wine?

A Spanish-flavoured celebration is not complete without a fish on the menu. It happens not only in coastal regions like Galicia and the Basque Country, but also in inland places like Extremadura. So, get ready to spend quite some time in the queue to get your perfect fish.

There are no strict rules, but usually it’s a whole fish that’s baked over potatoes, garlic, and aromatic herbs. The most popular is besugo (sea bream). It has a very delicate taste and remains juicy. Other fish can also work, even wild caught sea bass, which can grow quite large.

The most logical pairing would be an intense, barrel-aged white wine. Two perfect options are Godello from Valdeorras DO or Bierzo DO or aged white Rioja. But it is not what you will see on the table of a Spanish family, there will be… red wine. Yes, you can pair fish with red wine. In fact, it’s time to try it with a classic Gran Reserva from Rioja, like La Rioja Alta, which produces very soft, smooth yet elegant red wines and pair well with baked fish.

This combination is not just a case of “the best white wine is a red wine”, as the misguided saying goes, rather it is a traditional pairing that has become trendy again. The new rule about food and wine is that there are no rules at all. Every dish is different, every wine is special. So listen to the grandparents, they knew how to enjoy everything they had. And technically speaking it works. You bake the fish with herbs, olive oil and garlic, so the sauce is intense. A young white wine would add the acidity but get lost in the taste. Aged classic Rioja still have lot’s of acidity, it’s one of the keys to the greatness of the region, but the tannins are already rounded so it doesn’t kill the delicate taste of the fish.

All together it works well, just make sure you get classic style of Gran Reserva Rioja, new wave producers are pushing towards concentration and ageing potential. We don’t need that for the fish, we are looking for a  wine that is mild enough and respects other players on the table. Thank you, Rioja, for not losing your essence, it’s harder and harder to find wines true to its origins lately.  

Roasted lamb goes well with the overlooked clarete

What grows together goes together. Castile-León is a heaven for meat lovers, and here you can find few native cow breeds, but the main specialty is lamb. Here it’s cooked in the simplest way: roasted in the oven with some salt and water. Nothing else is needed; the quality of the lamb speaks for itself. And it goes perfectly with local red wines, like Toro DO, Arribes DO, and of course, Ribera del Duero DO. The styles can vary from very ripe, strong, and intense wines to softer, more elegant classic expressions, and both are absolutely spectacular and much loved by Spanish people.

Historically, however, this area made a very different type of wine called Clarete. Made by mixing red and white varieties, it has an intense rose colour and a rich and very long taste, making it perfect to pair with any kind of grilled or roasted meat. This style of wine existed in Castile- León long before fame arrived to the region. Locals say that it became especially popular after the philloxera, when the vines had to be replanted and vine growers decided to avoid risks and plant in the same vineyards all the varieties they could find. From Tinto Fino or Tempranillo as the main grape to red Mediterranean varieties like Garnacha, Bobal, Monastrell, as well as a mix of white varieties like Albillo Mayor, an ancestor of Tinto Fino. Moscatel was also planted, but mostly for the harvesters as it’s really delicious to taste straight from the vine, and Pirules, a common name for all the unknown varieties.

All the varieties were picked all together, pressed in lagar and fermented, giving the wine with bright color and fruitiness from red grapes, freshness, acidity and low alcohol from white grapes. When Ribera del Duero was founded in 1982, this tradition has been lost, and thanks to Jorge Monzón from Dominio del Águila this category has been brought back to life.

It’s neither rosé, nor red wine, it’s clarete and it brings us to the days when the only wine on the table had to be paired with everything on the menu. And it still works. Clarete has enough acidity to match with fatty food and even some fish, it has some tannin to be paired with red meats, it is usually a bit spicy and smoky, so the barbecue is perfect for that, and it has enough fruit to pair with delicious juicy lamb. If I had to choose the best version of Tempranillo based blends from Spain, it would definitely be a clarete, it can be as almost as fine as great Garnacha.

Cheese plate and orange wines, a lovely pairing

In Spain, the variety of cheeses is absolutely amazing, from intense blue ones from Asturias like Cabrales, to aged and delicate Manchego or creamy Torta del Casar from Cáceres. Which wine can stand out among all those intense flavours and not get lost? Of course, Jerez, especially Amontillado or Palo Cortado, which combine biological and oxidative ageing. It’s a delicious combination after a heavy meal: a bit of cheese, some membrillo (quince paste), and a glass of chilled Jerez. Make sure the serving temperature is right.

But don’t just stop at Jerez, because there’s another unexpected option that won’t be lost even after the main dish and a powerful red – it’s orange wine. Technically speaking, it’s a white wine made like a red wine, so the skins are used. But the best thing about it is that there are no regulations in this category. Some would use short maceration on skins to give a little bit of texture to the wine, while others would spend a month or more on the skins to make the wine more powerful, tannic and intense. There is always confusion about the ageing method. Not all orange wines are made in clay amphoras, though here in Spain it is a traditional technique as the country has a few sources of high quality clay, especially in La Mancha, where tinajas (Spanish for amphoras) have been produced since Roman times.

A cheese platter is always diverse - you start from soft and young cheeses and then progress in intensity and the ageing. How to find just one wine that can cope with the entire palette? Go for an orange wine made of Garnacha Blanca. This variety is the queen Terra Alta DO in Catalonia, where it shows the range of styles from young fruity white wines to intense orange wines aged in tinajas with long skin maceration. Made with skin contact, Garnacha doesn’t lose its fruitiness. Combined with its medium acidity and some tannin it dries out the pallet and cleans the intensity of the cheese, working well with the majority of the options on the platter. And don’t forget the membrillo – it’s one of the main aromas in any Garnacha Blanca.

A selection of different sweet wines to try

Historically, Spain used to be one of the main producers of sweet wines. They were produced all over the country, from Valle de Orotava in Tenerife, which exported wines to London and even Australia, to hidden villages in Catalonia. And what could be better than to finish dinner with special desserts as the Basque burnt-style cheesecake, a Tarta de Santiago or a yummy portion of arroz con leche? My advice would be to try lesser-known wines like Fondillón and Vi Ranci (rancid wine).

Fondillón is made in Alicante from a red Monastrell, which has been dried so that sugars are concentrated. It’s one of the classic sweet wines that can age in soleras or vintage barrels, and unlike sweet Pedro Ximénez from Jerez, it’s not fortified. Fondillón has lost its popularity. Now there are only a few wineries that continue the tradition. Look for Fondillón Luis XIV; it’s a very special wine for a special occasion.

Vi Ranci has been traditionally made in Catalonia, especially in Priorat DOCa. Local farmers used Garnacha Blanca or Garnacha Tinta and refilled small barrels almost every year to make this deeply oxidized wine. This tradition has almost been lost, as those wines have never been sold. They were used only for family events, and thanks to the new generation of winemakers, those ancient barrels survived and a very small quantity of the wines were bottled and released. The style can vary a lot, as they can be very dry or sweet, red or white, delicate or strong and alcoholic, but they never disappoint. And trust me, I know what I’m talking about, as I had the luck to attend a fantastic tasting of Vi Ranci by Sara Pérez from legendary Clos Martinet. It was such a surprise as these wines are completely unknown, many of them are never bottled but are definitely worth trying and talking about. It’s not only Michelin star restaurants that can serve this jewel in their pairings, you can find some rare bottles like Martinet Ranci Dolc or Maria de Cal Vall by Vall Llach, that will last almost forever in your wine fridge.

With this choices you will surprise your guests for sure!